5 Ways to Clean Ironing Boards
Starch residue, scorch marks, and fabric transfer tend to accumulate on ironing board covers with regular use. Left unaddressed, that buildup can transfer onto fabric and wear down the cover prematurely.
Cleaning approach varies by cover material, type of buildup, and whether the board itself needs attention or just the cover. Padded cotton covers respond differently than mesh or heat-reflective surfaces. Cleaning a removable cover requires different steps than spot-treating a fixed one.
The five methods below address specific conditions: light surface grime, starch and fabric residue, scorch marks, the metal grid underneath, and deodorizing the pad. Each includes the tools, materials, and steps for that situation.

Tools and Materials
Tools
- Soft-bristle brush or old toothbrush
- Spray bottle
- Clean white cloths or microfiber towels
- Sponge
- Vacuum with upholstery attachment
Materials
- Dish soap (mild, fragrance-free)
- Hydrogen peroxide (3%)
- Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl, 70%)
- Warm water
Optional
- Laundry detergent (for machine-washable covers)
- Non-abrasive scrubbing pad
- Oxygen-based laundry booster (for stubborn stains on washable covers)
5 Ways to Clean Ironing Board Covers and Frames
Ironing board cleaning typically falls into one of five categories depending on what has built up on the surface. Understanding what you are dealing with before starting helps avoid spreading residue or damaging the cover material.
1. Light Surface Grime and General Maintenance
This method applies to boards used regularly that have not developed staining or odor but show visible dust, lint, or light surface film.
You will need: Vacuum with upholstery attachment, warm water, mild dish soap, clean cloth.
- Unplug and fully cool the iron before you begin.
- Remove the ironing board cover if it is removable.
- Vacuum the cover surface using the upholstery attachment to remove lint and loose debris.
- Mix a few drops of dish soap into a cup of warm water.
- Dampen a clean cloth with the soapy solution. Wring it out well — it should be damp, not wet.
- Wipe the cover surface in long, even strokes.
- Follow with a cloth dampened in plain water to remove soap residue.
- Allow the cover to dry fully before replacing or ironing.
If the cover is machine-washable, check the label. Washing on a gentle cycle with mild detergent and air-drying typically handles light grime without step-by-step spot treatment.
2. Starch and Fabric Residue Buildup
Starch spray, sizing, and synthetic fabric residue leave a waxy or flaky film on the cover. This tends to happen gradually and may transfer onto clothing if not addressed.
You will need: Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl, 70%), soft-bristle brush, clean cloths.
- Do not use this method on heat-reflective or coated covers without checking the manufacturer’s care instructions first.
- Dampen a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol.
- Dab the affected area — do not rub aggressively at this stage.
- Let the alcohol sit for 2–3 minutes to soften the residue.
- Use a soft-bristle brush to work in small circular motions over the buildup.
- Wipe the area clean with a damp cloth.
- Repeat on any remaining patches.
- Allow the surface to dry completely before use.
If residue remains after two passes, apply fresh rubbing alcohol and extend the dwell time to 5 minutes before scrubbing. Test on an inconspicuous spot first on synthetic or treated covers.
3. Scorch Marks on the Cover
Scorch marks vary in depth. Light surface discoloration can often be reduced with the right approach. Deeper burns that have damaged the fabric fibers are typically permanent.
You will need: Hydrogen peroxide (3%), mild dish soap, soft cloth, old toothbrush.
- Remove the cover from the board if possible.
- Dampen the scorched area lightly with water.
- Apply a small amount of hydrogen peroxide directly onto the mark using a clean cloth.
- Let it sit for 10–15 minutes.
- Add a drop of mild dish soap and work it into the area with an old toothbrush using gentle circular motions.
- Rinse the area thoroughly with a damp cloth, removing all residue.
- Check the result once dry. Repeat once if the discoloration has lightened but not fully cleared.
On synthetic or coated surfaces, hydrogen peroxide may cause fading or fiber degradation. Test on a hidden area before applying to a visible scorch.
4. Cleaning the Metal Frame and Grid
The metal underframe and grid collect dust, rust spots, and product overspray. Residue buildup on the frame can transfer to the cover if left unaddressed.
You will need: Rubbing alcohol, mild dish soap, warm water, non-abrasive scrubbing pad, clean cloths.
- Fold the cover back or remove it entirely to expose the metal frame.
- Vacuum or brush off any loose dust and debris.
- Dampen a cloth with rubbing alcohol and wipe down the metal grid, frame legs, and adjustment hardware.
- For rust spots, dampen a non-abrasive scrubbing pad with warm soapy water and scrub the affected area lightly.
- Follow with a rubbing alcohol wipe to remove loosened rust residue and soap film.
- Wipe all surfaces with a clean damp cloth.
- Allow all metal parts to dry completely before reassembling. Moisture left on metal joints can accelerate rust.
- Inspect the locking mechanism and adjustment points. Wipe these with a dry cloth.
Avoid soaking any part of the metal frame. Prolonged exposure to water can loosen joints or cause rust to spread.
5. Deodorizing the Ironing Board Pad
Over time, the foam or cotton pad beneath the cover can hold odors from steam, starch, and fabric treatments. If the cover itself is clean but the board still smells during use, the pad is likely the source.
You will need: Hydrogen peroxide (3%), water, spray bottle, vacuum with upholstery attachment, clean cloth.
- Remove the ironing board cover completely.
- Vacuum the pad surface with an upholstery attachment to remove lint and surface debris.
- Mix one part hydrogen peroxide with two parts water in a spray bottle.
- Lightly mist the entire pad surface. Do not saturate it.
- Allow the solution to sit for 10–15 minutes to neutralize odor-causing residue.
- Wipe the pad down with a clean, damp cloth to remove any remaining solution.
- Allow the pad to air dry fully before replacing the cover. This typically takes 1–2 hours depending on conditions.
- Do not iron over a damp pad. Trapped moisture can transfer to fabric and may encourage mildew if the pad stays wet.
If odor does not clear after cleaning, or the foam pad has compressed significantly, replacement pads are available for many standard-size boards and are a practical option.
How Often to Clean an Ironing Board
Cleaning frequency depends on how the board is used and what products pass through it.
- Cover: Spot-clean after heavy starch use. General cleaning every 4–6 weeks for regular use.
- Pad: Deodorize every 2–3 months, or when odor is noticeable during ironing.
- Frame and grid: Wipe down every few months or when visible buildup appears.
- Machine-washable covers: Launder according to the care label. Avoid high heat during drying, which can cause shrinkage.

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